Essaouira

The walled port on the Atlantic

Essaouira is the calm, salt-washed opposite of Marrakech: white walls and blue shutters, wind off the sea and a pace that slows you down. Its sea walls were built in the 18th century for Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, and the medina inside them is on the UNESCO World Heritage list. The fishing harbour is still busy, the workshops still carve thuya wood, and in the evening Gnawa music drifts out of the cafés. It is about three hours from Marrakech.

Region: Marrakech-Safi
Best season: Spring · Summer · Autumn

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Essaouira: The walled port on the Atlantic

What Essaouira is known for

A medina on the UNESCO list inside 18th-century sea walls
Steady winds for kitesurfing and windsurfing
Gnawa music and its yearly festival
The blue fishing fleet and fresh fish at the port
Thuya wood marquetry, the town's own craft
The Skala, a cannon-lined rampart over the sea

Highlights

The Ramparts

The sea walls were laid out in the 18th century by a French engineer working for the Sultan. The Skala, a broad terrace lined with old cannon, is the place to be at sunset as the boats come in.

Gnawa music

Essaouira is closely tied to Gnawa, a spiritual music with roots in West Africa. The Gnawa and World Music Festival, usually held in early summer, brings musicians from Morocco and abroad.

Wind and water

Steady winds, strongest in summer, make the long beach south of the town a favourite with kitesurfers and windsurfers.

The medina

Unlike the maze of Marrakech, Essaouira's medina is laid out on a regular plan, easy to find your way in. The sea gate, the spice and jewellery souks and the fish auction at the port are the places to start.

Best time to visit

Spring: 4 / 5; April to June: warm, with moderate winds and long evenings.
Summer: 5 / 5; July and August: the winds are at their strongest, and the town stays cooler than inland Morocco.
Autumn: 4 / 5; September to November: pleasant temperatures and fewer visitors than summer.
Winter: 3 / 5; December to March: the coolest and quietest season.

Travel tips

Essaouira is about three hours from Marrakech. A day trip works, but a night is better.
Bring a windproof layer even in summer; the sea front can be chilly.
At the port fish stalls you choose your fish and have it grilled on the spot.
Look for real thuya marquetry, made from the root of the thuya tree.
Walk the ramparts at sunset for the light over the sea and the boats.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get from Marrakech to Essaouira?

By road, about three hours. Buses run from Marrakech, and our shared day trip leaves every morning with an argan cooperative stop on the way. There is no train.

Is Essaouira good if I don't surf?

Yes. The medina, the ramparts, the harbour, the music, the workshops and the long beach walks fill a stay without any water sports at all.

Day trip or overnight?

A day trip gives you four to five hours, enough for the medina, the ramparts, the harbour and lunch. Staying a night lets you see the town in the evening, when the day visitors have left.

Journeys to Essaouira

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Private

Agafay Desert at Sunset, with Dinner

An evening in the stony desert outside Marrakech: an hour on a quad, a camel ride at sunset and dinner at a desert camp.

Length: 1 day (afternoon–evening)
Starts from: Marrakech
From: €56/ person for 6+

Private

The Marrakech Medina with a Local Guide

Four hours on foot through the old city with your own guide: the Mellah, Ben Youssef Madrasa, the craft souks, the tanneries and Djemaa El-Fna.

Length: Half day (4 hours)
Starts from: Marrakech
From: €31/ person for 6+

Private

Marrakech to Fes in 3 Days

One way from Marrakech to Fes over the High Atlas and the Middle Atlas, with Aït Ben Haddou, Ifrane, the Azrou cedars and a full day in the Fes medina.

Length: 3 days
Starts from: Marrakech
From: €299/ person for 14+